Site Selection
Figs do best in areas with full sun. They are hardy trees adapted to many soil conditions. They grow best in soils with a depth of 4 feet or more but they also survive in shallower soils with hardpan or claypan layers. Figs also grow on soils high in lime but are sensitive to excessive sodium and boron. A reduction in yield and tipburn may be observed under these conditions. Avoid areas that may accumulate water, leading to rots.
Figs, though tropical in appearance, are actually quite tolerant of a range of growing conditions. They do well in areas where winter temperatures do not drop below 15° F. However, young trees may be severely injured by early fall frosts where the temperature drops to 25° to 27° F or winter killed with temperatures of 18° to 22° F. Warm daytime summer temperatures of 90° to 100° F are usually required to produce a dried fig crop. Fresh figs do not require as high a temperature range.
Sites with late summer or fall rains should be avoided because this period of humidity may cause the fruit to spoil or split before it is ready to harvest.
Planting
The ideal planting time for fruit or nut trees is during the dormancy period in the bare-root stage during winter or early spring. Plant as soon as possible after receiving them from the nursery, and do not let them dry out. The roots are very sensitive and must be kept wet and protected from harsh temperatures. Pack roots in peat moss or similar material and keep plants in cool, shady locations until ready to plant.
Avoid planting in a hole or a low-lying area to prevent diseases such as root rot. Plant in raised beds, or on a ridge or mound of soil several inches high and several feet across in areas where drainage is poor or soil is highly amended. Plants will settle as organic matter in the soil decomposes. The hole should be about 1.5 to 2 feet wide and about 1.5 feet deep.
When you are ready to plant, remove the packing from the root system and examine the roots. Cleanly remove broken or decayed roots prior to planting. Soak the roots in cool water for about 6 to 12 hours and then place the tree in the hole, being careful to spread out the roots. When planting, make sure all the roots are in their natural position. Avoid curling them around the planting area. Refill the hole with the original soil from the site and avoid adding organic amendments and fertilizers. While refilling the hole, settle the soil around the roots to avoid air pockets. Leave the graft union 2 inches above the soil line. Water in after planting. Fertilizer is not usually necessary the first year.
Watering
Fruit and nut trees require consistent, uniform soil moisture. Water is very important for young trees, especially during the first year when the root system is developing. Stress during early growth or during fruit production will reduce yields and fruit quality and may make trees more susceptible to boring insects or diseases. Moisture should be replaced well before the trees begin to show stress. Young trees may need up to 3 to 5 gallons of water per week. Avoid frequent light watering with sprinklers as this creates a shallow root system. A garden hose, soaker hose, or drip system can provide good deep watering. Sandy soils may have to be watered every 3 to 5 days; heavier soils may need only to be watered every 1.5 to 2 weeks. During hot weather, young trees may need to be watered more often. Avoid prolonged saturation. If weather is windy, be sure to stake young trees, otherwise they will lean in wet soils.
Do not water established trees near the trunk and lower branches, as this promotes root and crown disease. Water plants when needed around the drip line and beyond. Avoid overhead sprinklers when possible. Try to water deeply and infrequently (every 2 to 3 weeks) by irrigating for 12 to 24 hours to wet to a 3- to 6-foot depth. If using a drip system, water more on a continual basis. Reduce water in late summer and fall.
Pruning
Figs are pruned during early development and maturation to ensure strong branches that will be able to support the heavy crop. Mature fig trees set fruit on the current season's growth so pruning for fruit wood during the dormant season is not as important as it is for other fruit tree crops. However, the objective for dormant-season pruning is to remove interfering and broken branches, trim structural limbs that are weeping too far down, and promote adequate but not excessive shoot growth. Figs are also tolerant of very little pruning to heavy pruning, which results in a dwarfed tree. As trees mature, pruning should become less vigorous. Avoid cutting into the branch bark ridge, which is where new tissue that promotes wound closure originates. Protect exposed limbs from sunburn and to reduce borer damage with a 50:50 mix of white interior latex paint and water or whitewash.
Thinning
Thinning of fruit is not usually required for figs.
Training
Young trees are pruned to develop a tree structure which supports the limbs that ultimately support the heavy fruit load during the season. The goal of training is to develop a sturdy tree and a canopy that is capable of producing large crops and fills its allotted space. Training occurs during the first 2 to 3 years after planting and should be completed before fruit is allowed to set.
Figs and Japanese plums can be trained to the open center vase or to a delayed open center. A delayed open center system is similar to the open center but has wider spacing between scaffold branches. Because figs are prone to winter injury in colder climates, it is best to grow figs as a bush, where they can push enough new growth to produce a crop after cold injury. They should be pruned in late winter to keep in bush form by cutting back to about 8 feet.
First-Year Pruning
During the first year after planting, fruit and nut trees have different pruning requirements. Fig trees are normally cut back to a height of 24 to 30 inches above the ground after planting. If any side shoots are present after heading, they should be cut back also to a single bud. The young fig trees should be trained to an open center or vase system. Train the scaffold limbs to form a wide angle. Upright scaffolds with narrow angles tend to break or split away as the fruit becomes heavy.
Fertilizing
Do not fertilize during the first growing season. Young trees benefit from light applications of nitrogen fertilizer. Apply about 0.33 pound of ammonium sulfate per tree per year. Keep the fertilizer at least 18 inches or farther from the trunk and water well after application. As trees mature, increase fertilizer to up to 5 to 7 pounds of ammonium sulfate per tree per year. The ideal time of application is during the dormant season.
Fertilizing Tips
- 1st growing season: Do not fertilize
- Young trees: 1 to 2 oz actual nitrogen per year
- As trees mature: Apply 1 to 1.5 lb
Harvesting and Storing
Figs are fully ripe when they are soft and start to droop on their stems. They are ready for harvest when they can be removed from the tree easily if lifted and bent back toward the branch. Figs that are grown for drying are allowed to ripen fully then partially dry on the tree. As they begin to fall off, they may be harvested and dried completely on drying trays. Pick the fallen fruit up quickly, within a day or two, to avoid insect and disease problems. Fresh figs or figs for canning are harvested as soon as they become fully colored but still firm. If milky latex sap exudes from the cut stem end, the fruit is not fully ripe.
Figs can be stored in cool temperatures.
Sanitation
Sanitation is a necessary management tool in all home orchards because of the long life of trees. Perennial weeds, nematodes, and certain disease pathogens are difficult to control after trees become established. Prevent the introduction or spread of infestations by removing infected limbs and fruit. Disinfect cutting tools periodically during pruning and whenever they come into direct contact with diseased tissue. Clean equipment used in other areas to avoid introducing pathogens, nematodes, or weeds.
Sanitation Tips
- Remove diseased wood as soon as it becomes evident. Dispose of the prunings immediately to prevent them from becoming a source of new infections.
- Remove stumps, brush piles, and debris. Brush, thinnings, and other debris can harbor diseases as well as vertebrates and insects. Removing stumps may prevent population buildups of wood-boring insect pests.
- Remove diseased shoots, leaves, and fruit on trees and on the ground.
- Remove roosting, nesting, or resting areas that may attract large numbers of crop-destroying birds.
- Keep the tree crown area free of weeds to reduce crown rot infections.
- Spot-treat perennial weeds to prevent their spread.
